Paris beneath October’s autumn leaves

The City of Light shines brightest when locals come out to play

Low season: January to March

Before moving to Paris, I imagined my days full of the French capital’s hallmark Haussmannian architecture, gluten-free chocolate croissants, and throngs of camera-slinging tourists squished four-in-a-row across narrow pavements. Some of that came true — Paris, for the most part, lives up to its reputation as one of the globe’s most visited cities.

Still, as I meandered down the dusty trails of the Left Bank’s Jardin du Luxembourg last fall, I might never have known. In the leaf-spattered autumn lull, it’s easy to forget that one of Paris’ largest parks is minutes away from Notre-Dame, famed literary cafés Les Deux Magots and Café Flore, and les bouquinistes, booksellers whose emerald-green stands flank the Seine.

A view of Paris Paris by saiko3

Jardin de Luxembourg by Céline 

October is when Paris builds its chrysalis for the winter.

After September’s rentrée, Parisians return to their desks, their classrooms, and their favorite terrasse table as hordes of summer visitors disappear. The city sighs in relief as normalcy returns in a whoosh of crisp morning air and sun-soaked afternoon walks.

It might not last long before November’s chill comes a-nipping, but there are few things Parisians do better than bask in the beauty of a slow moment.

Nature en ville

While city dwellers and visitors frequent the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Jardin des Tuileries, a well-kept urban park nestled between the Louvre and the river, some of Paris’ best locales for leaf-peeping are left out of the travel guides.

As one of the city’s four largest green spaces, Parc Montsouris sits in Paris’ 14th arrondissement and is frequented by students, joggers, and swooping migratory birds. It’s a stone’s throw from a former working-class neighborhood turned lively home of brasseries, artisan workshops, and winding residential streets.

Photo: Parc Montsouris by Phoebe Skok

The Jardin des Plantes, a former king’s garden in the 5th arrondissement, celebrates its 400th anniversary this year and remains a vibrant research hub. Now, it’s home to multiple science museums, including the National Museum of Natural History (my personal favourite), as well as a menagerie and a snaking labyrinth.

A collection of masterpieces

The Louvre steals the spotlight as France’s most famous museum, but the city hosts over 100 museums of all shapes, sizes, and subjects.

Paris’ perfume museum – Musée du Parfum – is near the famed Opéra Garnier, which inspired Gaston Leroux’s novel and eventually Andrew Lloyd Webber’s blockbuster musical of the same name, The Phantom of the Opera. Now, the Musée du Parfum may not be haunted, but gentle scents of bergamot, jasmine and musk waft from the gift shop into exhibits exploring the history and processes of perfume-making.

The Musée Carnavalet walks through Paris’ history from its founding to the present. It’s the one of the oldest museums in the City of Light and houses over 640,000 works ranging from historic shop signs and 18th-century artisanry to Revolution-era relics.

Best of all, both museums are free all year round!

Rainy day recommendations

Paris sparkles in the sun but shimmers during storms. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more picturesque view than that of the Eiffel Tower through the rain-spattered window of metro line 6 as it chugs over the Seine.

Still, sometimes nothing’s nicer than ducking into a cosy café for a warm drink. Cat-lovers might want to pay a visit to the 13th’s Chat-Rivari Café, Paris’ all-vegan cat cafe that partners with a suburban animal shelter to connect felines to adopters. If the sun peeks out, continue down the boulevard and turn toward the sky — that neighborhood, les Gobelins, is known for its street art-splashed buildings.

Le Marais, Paris’ queer neighborhood and historic Jewish quarter, abounds with bookstores and boutiques. While it’s not all sheltered, the shops are nestled closely so venturing between them is but a brief waltz with the rain. English speakers can profit from the entirely Anglophone Smith&Son on la Rue des Rosiers, though La Mouette Rieuse’s bookstore-cafe setup and vibrant ambiance is enticing.

Le Marais by Phoebe Skok

[ A view of Paris in the rain by Savvapanf Photo ]

What to eat and drink

Regardless of dietary restrictions, you will find ways to eat well in Paris.

Though buckwheat galettes are typical Breton cuisine from northwestern France, you’ll find stacks of the crispy, naturally gluten-free savory crêpes spread all throughout Paris. Think luscious leeks, jammy fried eggs, sizzling mushrooms, crispy bits of ham, and oozing cheese accompanied by a round mug of hard cider. Le P’tit Breton in the 14th arrondissement is my go-to.

The city’s also known for its hot chocolate, including from Instagram-famous Angelina. Buddy Buddy, a nut butter café in the 10th arrondissement, is a tasty, more off-the-beaten-path alternative. One word of advice? Visit with an empty stomach and try the hazelnut praline mocha.

If you’re still hungry, stroll 15 minutes east and grab a bite at the historic Bouillon Julien. Traditional French cafeterias that first arose in the mid-1850s, bouillons are known for serving high-quality, affordable food to workers. Bouillon Julien in particular is known for its Art Nouveau aesthetic and stunning stained glass.

A traditional French galette, photo by frantic00

Box Out – Paris, practically speaking

Getting there

With a short, two-hour trip on the Eurostar, you can start the day with a cup of tea in London and be chowing down on croissants by mid-day. Tickets start around £39; downtown Paris is then just a quick metro ride away from the train station. It’s a very walkable city, but a week-long unlimited transit pass will only set you back £25-30 and is usually cheaper than buying individual metro tickets.

Where to stay

I’d recommend the Left Bank’s 14th arrondissement for its cozy, tree-lined streets and village spirit or the Right Bank’s 11th arrondissement if you’re craving buzzy nightlife and a hip food scene. With both, you’ll be near the main drags, but far enough away so your surroundings feel more lived-in than manufactured. Hotel Aiglon on the 14th’s Boulevard Raspail was recently awarded the sustainable tourism Green Key label thanks to its water, waste, and energy saving initiatives. In the 11th, the zero-carbon Eden Lodge runs 100% on renewable energy and focuses on providing guests with “ecological luxury.”

What’s on in October

While most of Paris’ main attractions remain open year-round, many museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays — double-check the hours online. The Centre Pompidou, one of Europe’s largest and most celebrated modern art museums, will be closed through 2030.

If you’re lucky, you’ll wind up in the city on the first Sunday of the month, when various museums offer free entry. Those under 26 can also usually access discounted or free rates. Speaking of youngsters, school holidays fall in late October. Though the metro may be slightly emptier than usual, family-run shops may be closed or offer limited hours during the vacances.