Over lunch at Imber, a Jewish fusion restaurant in the heart of Łódź, I had the pleasure of speaking with Tomasz Koralewski, CEO of the Łódź Tourism Organisation. Born on the very day the city received its charter in 1423, Tomasz embodies the deep connection between Łódź and its people. Our conversation, punctuated by traditional dishes that tell the story of the city’s multicultural heritage, revealed a destination that challenges conventional tourism wisdom and offers something increasingly rare in modern Europe: authenticity.
As we shared plates of reimagined herrings and explored the flavours that once sustained factory workers, it became clear that Łódź represents a different kind of tourism experience. This is not a city that seeks to attract everyone, but rather one that offers profound rewards to those willing to look beyond the surface and engage with its complex, ongoing story of transformation.
From Village to Industrial Giant: A City Built on Dreams
Łódź’s story reads like a masterclass in urban transformation. Despite receiving city rights in 1423, the settlement remained little more than a village for four centuries, home to perhaps 2,000 souls living in wooden houses around a modest market square. By the 18th century, the population had dwindled to just 700 people. Then came the decision that would change everything.
“Everything changed at the beginning of the 19th century when the decision was made that this was actually a great spot for starting an industrial town,” Tomasz explains, describing how planners recognised the area’s potential. The combination of abundant wood, small rivers for power, cheap available land, and crucially, central location with access to German and Austrian markets, made Łódź the perfect candidate for Poland’s industrial revolution.
The transformation was nothing short of extraordinary. A new city was designed next to the old town, laid out in the American style with parallel streets creating a grid system that remains evident today. Free land was offered to settlers from across Europe – Poland, Czechia, Belgium, Germany – creating a truly multicultural industrial hub. This was the “Promised Land” that would later inspire Władysław Reymont’s Nobel Prize-winning novel of the same name.
The numbers tell the story of this remarkable growth: from 700 inhabitants in 1822 to nearly half a million by the century’s end. Hundreds of factories sprouted across the landscape, their chimneys creating a forest of smoke that spoke to the city’s industrial might. Cotton was king, and Łódź became one of Europe’s major textile centres, earning its nickname as the “Manchester of Poland.”
But this rapid industrialisation came at a cost. Living conditions were harsh, with stark inequalities between the wealthy factory owners – Jewish, German, and Polish entrepreneurs who built industrial empires – and the predominantly Polish and Jewish workers who laboured in often difficult conditions. Yet it was precisely this diversity, this mixing of cultures and ambitions, that gave Łódź its unique character and set it apart from every other city in Poland and much of Europe.
The Great Regeneration: Recycling on a Massive Scale
The collapse of communism in the late 1980s and early 1990s brought Łódź face to face with its greatest challenge. The factories that had sustained the city for over a century suddenly became obsolete, closing almost simultaneously and leaving unemployment rates soaring to nearly 30%. Unlike mining regions that received government support, Łódź was left to find its own path forward.
“We had to face a general challenge, what to do with not only the buildings themselves, but with the people,” Tomasz reflects, highlighting the dual nature of the city’s regeneration project. This wasn’t simply about repurposing buildings; it was about transforming mindsets and creating new opportunities for a population whose skills had suddenly become redundant.
The solution that emerged represents one of Europe’s most impressive examples of urban recycling. Rather than demolishing the industrial heritage, Łódź chose to breathe new life into its factory buildings. Today, these magnificent red-brick structures house hotels, apartments, offices, cultural institutions, and museums. The transformation is so comprehensive that visitors can experience the entire spectrum of regeneration in a single walk – from buildings still awaiting renovation to those in the process of transformation, to spectacular examples of completed projects.
This approach to regeneration extends far beyond mere architecture. As Tomasz emphasises, “We thought about this revitalisation as a project not only for architecture and buildings themselves, but also for the minds of the people.” The city has successfully diversified its economy, moving from mono-industrial dependence to a multi-service economy that includes tourism as a significant component.
The scale of this transformation is staggering. With over 400 former factory buildings being repurposed, Łódź represents recycling and regeneration on a massive scale. It’s a living laboratory of sustainable urban development, where visitors can witness the ongoing process of transformation rather than simply viewing the finished product.
Not for Everyone: The Honest Tourism Approach
Tomasz is refreshingly honest about Łódź’s tourism appeal: “I really know that this is not for everyone.” This isn’t false modesty but a strategic recognition that the city offers something different from conventional tourist destinations. While Łódź has created attractions for broader audiences – a revitalised zoo, the EC1 cultural complex with its planetarium and museums – the city’s true strength lies in attracting visitors who seek deeper engagement.
“The people who like not only to see, but also to hear the story,” Tomasz explains, describing the ideal Łódź visitor. These are travellers interested in witnessing the process of change, who want to understand not just the final result but the entire journey of transformation. They can see areas still awaiting renovation alongside those in progress and those beautifully completed, experiencing “the whole package, the whole story.”
This approach has created something increasingly rare in European tourism: authentic integration between visitors and locals. “We don’t have a touristy spot just for tourists,” Tomasz notes with pride. Even on Piotrkowska Street, the main pedestrian thoroughfare and major tourist attraction, visitors constantly encounter local residents going about their daily lives. This creates opportunities for genuine cultural exchange and real connections.
The city’s tourism infrastructure reflects this philosophy. With approximately 5,000 hotel rooms and another 5,000-7,000 Airbnb spaces, Łódź has deliberately maintained a human scale. “We don’t need more,” Tomasz states firmly. “We only need those people who want to come to spend quality time in connection with the local people, with the local history, local culture, local food.”
This selective approach extends to the type of experience Łódź offers. The city actively discourages quick, superficial visits. “I’m not looking for visitors who stay just a couple of hours. I’m looking for tourists, who, like you have on this visit, want to spend a couple of days here” Tomasz explains. The goal is to facilitate the kind of deep cultural immersion that creates lasting memories and meaningful connections – the kind of travel that might result in wedding invitations, as happened when Tomasz lived in the United States and formed friendships so deep that his American friends travelled to Poland for his wedding.
Accessibility and Inclusion: Tourism for Everyone
Łódź’s commitment to inclusive tourism extends far beyond its philosophical approach to visitor engagement. The city has leveraged European Union funding to ensure that most attractions are fully accessible to disabled visitors, creating a destination where physical limitations need not restrict the travel experience.
One attraction stands out as particularly remarkable in this regard: the Black World experience. Located centrally near Liberty Square, this unique attraction is operated entirely by blind guides who invite visitors into their world. “You’re entering a house, a space that is in complete darkness, with only the help of a guide who is a blind person,” Tomasz explains. “You’re exploring every part of the apartment because it is a normal apartment.”
The 45-minute experience takes visitors through a fully furnished home – kitchen, bedrooms, dining room – all in complete darkness. The blind guides, all women, lead visitors through the space, teaching them to navigate without sight and sharing insights into their daily lives. “Even for me, it was an amazing experience,” Tomasz admits, noting that even though he had a blind grandmother and thought he understood the challenges, the experience was life-changing.
This attraction exemplifies Łódź’s approach to inclusive tourism: creating meaningful employment opportunities while offering visitors profound, transformative experiences. It’s tourism that serves multiple purposes – education, empathy-building, and economic inclusion – while challenging visitors’ perceptions and assumptions.
The city’s accessibility extends to practical matters as well. Everything is within walking distance, from major attractions to hotels and transportation hubs. Only the airport requires a 20-minute drive from the city centre. This compact, walkable layout makes Łódź particularly appealing to visitors with mobility considerations, while the comprehensive accessibility features ensure that the city’s cultural offerings are available to all.
Sustainable Tourism: Quality Over Quantity
Łódź’s approach to tourism development is inherently sustainable, though not always by design. The city’s focus on attracting thoughtful, engaged visitors rather than mass tourism creates a natural buffer against the overtourism that plagues many European destinations. “We are not interested in huge numbers of low quality visitors” Tomasz states bluntly, emphasising the preference for visitors who will spend several days and engage meaningfully with the local community.
This philosophy aligns perfectly with both sustainable tourism principles and my own principles when founding Low Season Traveller. By encouraging longer stays and deeper engagement, Łódź maximises the economic benefit of each visitor while minimising the environmental and social impact. The city’s compact, walkable layout reduces transportation needs, while the emphasis on local culture and cuisine supports community businesses.
The regeneration of industrial buildings rather than new construction represents sustainability on an architectural scale. This massive recycling project has preserved the city’s heritage while creating modern facilities, avoiding the environmental cost of demolition and new construction. The result is a destination where sustainability isn’t an add-on but an integral part of the tourism experience.
Looking to the future, Tomasz envisions Łódź finding its place on the international tourism map while maintaining its authentic character. The strategy involves balancing leisure travellers with business tourism, particularly in the MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conferences, and Exhibitions) sector. The city’s central location in Poland makes it ideal for conferences and events, providing year-round economic activity that supports the tourism infrastructure.
“To place the city on the map in a balanced way, to have an influx of people throughout the whole year,” Tomasz explains, describing the goal of sustainable, year-round tourism that avoids the peaks and troughs that can strain destinations and communities. This approach recognises that sustainable tourism isn’t just about environmental impact but about creating economic stability and community benefit.
A City of Contrasts: Personal Favourites and Hidden Gems
When pressed for his personal favourite places in Łódź, Tomasz reveals the deep affection of someone who has spent a lifetime discovering his own city through fresh eyes. His choices reflect the complex character of a place built on contrasts and contradictions.
The red-brick factory buildings hold a special place in his heart. These monumental structures, with their careful architectural details, represent the ambition and craftsmanship of 19th-century industrialists who cared about beauty even in functional buildings. “The industrial owners in the past were considering the business level, but they also took real care about the details of the architecture,” he explains, highlighting how these buildings serve as both historical documents and aesthetic experiences.
Perhaps more surprisingly, Tomasz singles out the Jewish cemetery as one of his favourite places, particularly in autumn. As Europe’s second-largest Jewish cemetery, it bears witness to the vibrant community that once comprised one-third of Łódź’s population. The cemetery has evolved into an unexpected green space, where mature trees create a canopy of autumn colours that contrasts dramatically with the grey monuments below.
These monuments themselves tell a story of cultural adaptation and excess. The wealthy industrialists of the 19th century, despite Jewish traditions favouring modest graves, constructed enormous monuments that rival anything found in European cemeteries. “They considered a small grave as something not very interesting, so they constructed huge monuments,” Tomasz notes, describing another layer of the city’s complex cultural heritage.
The cemetery also contains the ghetto field, where victims of the Łódź Ghetto were buried during World War II. This creates what Tomasz describes as a profound contrast between “very tragic history and this peaceful atmosphere of today’s green part of the city.” It’s a place where visitors can experience both the weight of history and the possibility of renewal.
Finally, Tomasz celebrates the eclectic palaces built by the city’s industrial magnates. These buildings represent the ultimate expression of 19th-century wealth and ambition, mixing architectural styles with abandon. “If the people were rich, they wanted everything,” he explains, describing buildings that combine multiple European styles in glorious, sometimes overwhelming profusion. The contrast between these palatial homes and the workers’ tenements next door provides yet another layer to Łódź’s story of inequality and aspiration.
The Creative Spirit: Why Visitors Return
There’s something in the air in Łódź that defies easy description but exerts a powerful pull on creative individuals. Tomasz has observed this phenomenon repeatedly: journalists and other creative professionals who come to the city for work find themselves returning, not for assignments but for inspiration. “Sometimes they come here just to create something, to write about something, because they need time and atmosphere and the creative inspiration that is around,” he explains.
This creative magnetism seems connected to the city’s identity as what Tomasz calls “the last European undiscovered city.” There’s a freedom that comes from being outside the mainstream tourist circuit, a space for experimentation and authentic expression that’s increasingly rare in Europe’s more established destinations. The ongoing transformation provides a dynamic backdrop which stimulates creativity and innovation.
The city’s multicultural heritage, its history of reinvention, and its current status as an underdog all contribute to an atmosphere that encourages risk-taking and creative expression. This is evident in the thriving design scene, the international film festival, the comics culture, and the numerous cultural institutions that have found homes in repurposed industrial buildings.
For visitors, Łódź offers something increasingly precious: the opportunity to discover a place before it becomes widely known, to experience authentic local culture without the mediation of mass tourism, and to witness a city actively writing its next chapter. It’s a destination for travellers who value substance over style, story over spectacle, and genuine connection over Instagram moments.
As our conversation concluded over our traditional Jewish-Polish fusion cuisine, it became clear that Łódź represents a different model of urban tourism – one based on honesty, sustainability, and genuine cultural exchange. In a world where many destinations struggle with overtourism and loss of authenticity, Łódź offers a refreshing alternative: a city confident enough in its own story to attract only those visitors who truly want to be there.
For the thoughtful traveller seeking to understand contemporary Europe’s challenges and possibilities, Łódź provides an unparalleled opportunity to witness urban regeneration in action, to engage with a community actively shaping its future, and to experience the kind of authentic cultural immersion that transforms both visitor and destination. It may not be for everyone, but for those it calls to, Łódź offers rewards that extend far beyond the typical tourist experience.
Further Information
For readers interested in planning a visit to Łódź or learning more about the city’s tourism offerings, the following resources provide comprehensive information:
Official Tourism Resources:
- Łódź Tourism Organisation – Official tourism portal with comprehensive visitor information – https://lodz.travel/en/
- Visit Lodz – Additional tourism information and itineraries – https://visitlodz.com/
Key Attractions Mentioned:
- Black World – Unique sensory experience guided by blind hosts – https://blackworld.pl/en/
- Piotrkowska Street – Main pedestrian thoroughfare and cultural heart – https://lodz.travel/en/tourism/what-to-see/piotrkowska-street/
- Jewish Cemetery – Europe’s second-largest Jewish cemetery – https://lodz.travel/en/tourism/what-to-see/litzmannstadt-ghetto/the-jewish-cemetary/
- Manufaktura – Shopping and cultural complex in converted factory buildings – https://en.manufaktura.com/
Dining:
Restauracja Imber – Modern Jewish-Polish fusion cuisine – https://lodz.travel/convention/restauracje-dla-grup/imber/
Planning Resources:
- Three-Day Łódź Itinerary – Comprehensive guide for first-time visitors – https://visitlodz.com/lodz-three-day-itinerary/
- Getting Around Łódź – Transportation information – https://visitlodz.com/getting-around-in-lodz/
Ged Brown spend 5 days exploring Łódź during the warm and bright low season month of August 2025. He clocked up 80k steps, recorded 4 deep conversations, and finally learned how to pronounce “Piotrkowska Street” on his final day in the city…
