By Harriet Akinyi
Wading into the waters lit by bioluminescent plankton feels like stepping into a dream. With each movement, the sea comes alive in electric blue sparkles, as though the stars have descended and now swirl around your fingertips and ankles. The night is still, except for the gentle lapping of waves, and every splash creates a magical explosion of light. It’s otherworldly – like painting on water with light. The more you move, the more the plankton ignite, creating a glowing trail behind you. For a moment, time feels suspended, and you are completely immersed in a glowing underwater galaxy.
This is one of the quiet, almost sacred experiences that a traveller can have in Kilifi, where nature’s hidden beauty pulses in rhythm with your breath and heartbeat.
Discovering Kilifi’s Coastal Magic
On Kenya’s Indian Ocean shoreline, halfway between the hustle of Mombasa and the bohemian buzz of Watamu, lies Kilifi, a quiet coastal town that exudes slow beauty. Kilifi is one of the few places in Africa that can boast a natural light show quite like Kilifi Creek. On certain nights, especially during the new moon when the sky is dark, the water comes alive with bioluminescent plankton – microscopic organisms that glow when disturbed. It’s a surreal, sci-fi-like spectacle where every paddle stroke, splash, or movement leaves behind a sparkling blue trail.
I feel blessed that this stunning town is in the country I call home and is a place I can retreat to once in a while when I want to get away from the hustle and bustle of busy Nairobi life. With its sun-bleached shores, meandering creek, ancient ruins, and one of the most surreal night-time spectacles in the country – the bioluminescent plankton – Kilifi is where nature rewrites your sense of wonder.
When to Visit: Embracing the Low Season
The best time to visit Kilifi is in the low season between April and June, during the long rains, and again from October to early December, just before the festive season. These months offer quieter beaches, significantly reduced accommodation rates, and a more intimate experience of Kilifi’s coastal charm and culture.
While the April to June period brings heavier rains and some lodges may close for renovations, the October to December window typically features light, short rains with plenty of sunshine – ideal for travellers seeking a peaceful getaway. For the best bioluminescent plankton experience, locals say the optimal time is between November and April, though sightings can happen year-round depending on tides, moon phases, and water temperatures.
The low season periods also allow for richer interactions with locals, less crowded heritage sites, and a slower, more authentic coastal rhythm. Whether you’re a solo adventurer, a couple chasing sunsets, or a family after laid-back luxury, Kilifi offers more than just sandy toes.
Sustainable Stays: Distant Relatives Ecolodge
During my stay, I spent three nights at the Distant Relatives Ecolodge, though there are many other places where one can stay, such as Salty’s Kitesurf Village. The ecolodge is more than just a place to stay, as there are plenty of activities to do within the lodge as well. It is here too that I had beach access to experience the bioluminescent plankton, as the creek is a short distance from the lodge.
Their permaculture philosophy shapes every path, garden, and building on the site. Led by permaculture expert Benji and supported by founders educated in sustainable design, the lodge turns its three-acre grounds into a living classroom of eco-living. Rainwater is harvested from every roof and filtered through artificial reed beds before irrigating terraces and fruit tree gardens planted with bananas, passionfruit, moringa, guava, custard apple, and avocados. The interesting bit is that they are all organically nourished with compost, vermiliquid, and worm castings from a DIY worm farm.
Their composting toilets are another interesting feature, as they conserve scarce water and produce rich “humanure” that has generated over 150 tons of fertiliser since 2014, transforming waste into lush soil and closing the nutrient loop on-site. They have also turned recycled glass bottles into garden lanterns and walls, whilst scrap wood and upcycled tyres build terraces and retention walls. Furniture is crafted from driftwood, old boats, and invasive tree species.
Another point of interest is that travellers here can also participate in one of the free permaculture tours, where one can explore the permaculture food forest and even volunteer during course seasons. Guests can also explore nearby beaches or take part in Swahili cooking classes. By night, there’s a legendary bonfire, live music, or open mic night under the stars.
Even if you’re staying elsewhere, drop in for their weekly pizza nights, local markets, or workshops. It’s the cultural pulse of Kilifi, drawing artists, travellers, and free spirits from around the globe.
Exploring Kilifi’s Natural Wonders
Once you are done with the lodge, exploring Kilifi will be the next enjoyable thing to do. The first place to explore is the beach, and Kilifi beaches are quieter compared to other coastal towns. Bofa Beach, Kilifi’s main public beach, stretches for kilometres and is often blissfully empty. The white sands and clear turquoise waters with gentle waves make them ideal for lazy swims, long walks, or even sunrise yoga.
For adrenaline seekers, Kilifi offers kitesurfing, especially at Salty’s or Bofa Beach. The wind conditions are ideal during the kite season (June–September and December–February). If you prefer something slower, try yoga retreats, ceramic art workshops, or volunteer with one of the community or environmental projects – many of which are run by locals or expats living in Kilifi.
I also enjoyed the sunset cruises, with a local captain gliding across the creek, past hidden coves, local fishermen casting nets, and flocks of kingfishers and herons. While one can also enjoy an afternoon dhow cruise, a sunset one is better, as watching the golden sun dip below the mangroves as the sky turns sherbet pink is one of Kilifi’s most unforgettable experiences.
Historical Treasures and Cultural Immersion
For history lovers, just south of Kilifi town, the Mnarani Ruins offer a window into the area’s rich Swahili heritage. These 14th-century coral stone ruins include the remains of two mosques, ancient tombs, and a once-thriving settlement perched above the creek. As you walk through the silent archways and weathered graves, you’ll get a sense of the trade, religion, and culture that once pulsed through this coastal hub. The site is surrounded by baobab trees, one of which is believed to be over 800 years old.
Entry is affordable, and local guides (usually available on-site) can narrate stories of the Swahili past and Kilifi’s early Islamic influence. After this, one can visit the traditional Swahili village of Takaungu, where you can taste local dishes, sample coconut wine, and tour cassava and coconut farms.
Not far from the quiet village of Takaungu, a motorbike ride takes you along dusty paths lined with sharp-leaved sisal and fields dotted with towering baobab trees rising above maize plantations. The journey ends dramatically at the edge of black coral cliffs, known as Vuma Cliffs, where the Indian Ocean crashes against the rocks in steady rhythm. Distant Relatives Ecolodge arranges motorbike trips to the cliffs for KSh1,500, whether solo or in a pair.
Culinary Delights
How can you forget Kilifi’s culinary scene? The town’s restaurants offer the best Swahili and seafood dishes, with some overlooking the creek and others by the beach. Don’t leave without tasting a local madafu (young coconut) and the popular samaki wa kupaka – grilled fish slathered in a creamy coconut-tamarind sauce.
In Kilifi, I discovered that sometimes the most profound travel experiences aren’t found in the guidebooks or Instagram hotspots, but in the quiet moments when you wade into glowing waters under a starless sky, feeling utterly connected to the natural world around you. This sleepy coastal town offers a gentle reminder of what it means to slow down, breathe deeply, and let Kenya’s coastal magic work its way into your soul.
All Photos Credit Author/Shutterstock
