By Rocco Bova
There’s a Mexico you’ve probably seen in glossy brochures or postcards – the sun-drenched beaches, the tourist-packed ruins, the bustling streets of places like Cancun. But then there’s the Mexico you don’t know – the quieter, more intimate side, where history and culture blend into everyday life, where you can lose yourself in colonial towns, swim in sacred cenotes, and marvel at flamingos in secluded lagoons. This is the Mexico of Yucatan, a place where I’ve lived for the past eight years and fallen deeply in love with.
My name is Rocco Bova. I consider myself more of a nomad than a traveller. I’ve lived in 11 countries, never settling in one place for less than a year. But something about Mexico – and more specifically, the Yucatan state – has captured my heart. So much so that I, along with my wife, decided to drop anchor here after nearly three decades of globetrotting. And now, as a hotelier and an avid low season traveller, I’m here to share with you the Mexico I’ve come to know intimately – one that’s far from the tourist crowds and truly comes alive during the off-peak months.
A Tale of Two Yucatans
Before we dive into the journey, let me clear up one common misconception: Yucatan is often confused with the Yucatan Peninsula. The peninsula itself is enormous – larger than many European countries – and includes the states of Yucatan, Campeche, and Quintana Roo. Our focus here is on the Yucatan state, the cradle of the ancient Maya civilisation and home to some of the most stunning archaeological sites in the world.
But beyond the grand ruins of Chichen Itza or Uxmal, there’s another Yucatan to discover – one filled with small towns, magical experiences, and a deeply rich culture. So, let’s begin our journey, starting with Yucatan’s vibrant capital, Merida.
Merida: The White City
Your first stop will be Merida, the capital city of Yucatan and the perfect introduction to the region’s mix of Maya heritage and Spanish colonial influence. Known as the ‘Ciudad Blanca’ or White City, thanks to its gleaming limestone buildings, Merida is a delightful place to explore, especially in the low season. With fewer tourists, you can wander its streets at a leisurely pace, taking in the grandeur of its colonial architecture, from Art Nouveau to Art Deco and Gothic revival styles. There’s always something to see – and something to eat.
Merida’s cuisine is another reason to visit. Traditional Yucatecan dishes like cochinita pibil (slow-cooked pork marinated in citrus and spices), sopa de lima (a fragrant lime soup), and papadzules (tortillas stuffed with hard-boiled eggs and topped with pumpkin seed sauce) are some of the local delicacies you can savour. The city’s markets and restaurants come alive with vibrant flavours, even during the quieter months, and it’s worth seeking out the lesser-known spots where locals dine.
But Merida is not just about food and architecture. It’s also a city of culture, with year-round events and festivals, even in the low season. You could stumble upon a street performance, an art exhibition, or a traditional dance on any given day. One must-see while in Merida is Dzibilchaltun, an ancient Maya site just a short drive from the city. Here, you’ll find a small step pyramid and a remarkable phenomenon during the summer solstice when the sun aligns perfectly with the structure’s doorway, a mystical moment that the Maya believed was filled with joy and energy.
After a few days of soaking up the sights and sounds of Merida, it’s time to hit the road and explore Yucatan’s enchanting ‘pueblos mágicos’ or magical towns, starting with a visit to Izamal.
Izamal: The Yellow City
If Merida is the White City, then Izamal is its sun-drenched counterpart – the Yellow City. This pueblo mágico is renowned for its golden-yellow buildings, which give the town a warm, welcoming glow. It’s like stepping back in time, to a place where life moves at a slower pace, and the air is thick with history. Izamal’s charm lies in its simplicity – cobblestone streets, bustling markets, and artisans at work. And the best part? The town is dotted with Maya pyramids, 12 in total, which are freely accessible to visitors.
One of the most fascinating things about Izamal is how seamlessly the Maya and Spanish histories intertwine here. The town’s largest pyramid, Kinich Kak Moo, was once a major Maya temple, but the Spanish, in their quest to Christianise the region, built the massive Convent of San Antonio de Padua on top of it. Today, this basilica is one of the largest in Mexico and second only to the Vatican in size. Visiting Izamal is like peeling back layers of history – it’s a place where you can climb ancient pyramids and then step into a colonial church, all within a few minutes.
For an overnight stay, Casa de los Artistas or Coqui Coqui, a boutique hotel and perfumery, offer cosy accommodation with a touch of old-world charm. One night in Izamal is enough to soak in its magic before continuing on to another hidden gem of Yucatan: Espita.
Espita: A Quiet Haven
Not far from Izamal lies Espita, another recently designated pueblo mágico that’s often overlooked by travellers. This quiet town has a fascinating history tied to the haciendas of Yucatan – the grand estates built by wealthy landowners during the height of the sisal boom in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Sisal, a fibre extracted from the henequen plant (a type of agave), was known as “green gold” and brought enormous wealth to the region. But this prosperity came at a cost, as the local peons, who worked the land, lived under near-slave conditions. This led to the Guerra de Castas, a series of uprisings against the Spanish and the landowners.
Espita became a refuge for many of these landowners during the conflict, and its streets are still lined with the remnants of grand haciendas. Today, Espita is a peaceful, sleepy town where life revolves around the main square and the market. One night here is more than enough, and you’ll find a charming place to rest at Casona de los Cedros, a boutique hotel run by a young French couple who left behind the bustle of Paris for the tranquillity of Yucatan.
Cenotes and San Felipe: Nature’s Hidden Wonders
After soaking in Espita’s calm, head out early the next morning for a refreshing dip in Cenote Kikil. If you’ve never swum in a cenote, you’re in for a treat. These natural sinkholes, formed when limestone bedrock collapses, exposing groundwater, were sacred to the Maya and often used for ceremonies. Today, they’re one of the best ways to cool off in Yucatan’s heat – and visiting during the low season means you might just have one to yourself.
After your swim, continue on to the nearby fishing village of San Felipe, a place that feels worlds away from the typical Mexican beach town. Here, you can take a small boat tour through the lagoon, a Natural Protected Area, to see flamingos and other migratory birds. The boat ride lasts around two hours, and when you return, the town’s waterfront restaurants are waiting to serve up the freshest seafood – the perfect way to end the day.
San Felipe is also unique for its Caribbean-style architecture – brightly coloured wooden houses that wouldn’t look out of place in Jamaica or Barbados. It’s a strange yet charming sight in this quiet corner of Yucatan, and one that adds to the village’s laid-back vibe.
Las Coloradas: A Pink Finale
No journey through Yucatan would be complete without a visit to Las Coloradas, famous for its surreal pink lagoons. The vibrant pink hue of the water is caused by a combination of algae, plankton, and brine shrimp, which also give the local flamingos their rosy colour. The area is used for sea salt production, and a visit to the Las Coloradas Tourist Park offers a fascinating glimpse into the salt-making process, as well as the opportunity to support local conservation efforts aimed at protecting wildlife like sea turtles and flamingos.
After marvelling at the pink waters and snapping a few envy-inducing photos, it’s time to head back to Merida. Five nights may have passed in the blink of an eye, but the experiences and memories you’ll take home from this low season adventure will last a lifetime.
Discover the Mexico You Don’t Know
Yucatan is a place of colour, culture, and contrasts – a destination that comes alive in ways you’d never expect, especially when you visit outside of the typical tourist season. From the colonial elegance of Merida to the golden streets of Izamal, from the peaceful cenotes to the flamingo-filled lagoons of San Felipe, this is a side of Mexico that few travellers see. And that’s exactly what makes it so special. So why not embrace the quiet, avoid the crowds, and discover the Mexico you don’t know?
